#Boyesen quickshot how to#
#Boyesen quickshot mod#

#Boyesen quickshot how to#

You also need to learn how to adjust your fuel screw (for max idle, then adjust idle screw). You MUST lift up the subframe, inspect the squirt and adjust as needed. It has NOTHING to do with how your bike starts, unless the pump is not working. Hope this helps.Thanks for fielding this one Chillbert> It has grown tiresome for me. The QS-3 is an adjustable leak jet, and anti-cavitation cavity for the apump. If you shaved it, and its still binding and sticking, then you didnt shave enough off of the AP Diaphragm, and must shave it some more in order to eliminate that binding effect that is happening. By shaving the AP Diaphragm rivet down, you are extending the travel that the diaphragm can move, thus, when the AP Link Rod pushes down on it, it WONT bottom out on the AP Cover. This is the reasoning behind SHAVING the AP Diaphragm rivet. If you wire the AP Link Lever to the AP Set Screw Bracket, you are now BINDING those mechanical objects. This is due to the AP Link Rod pushing down on the AP Diaphragm and bottoming out on the AP Bowl. If you looked at the AP Gap before wiring, and twisted the throttle to WOT, then you would see that the AP Link Lever DOES NOT maintain its seating against the AP Set Screw at WOT, matter of fact, at 3/4 they start separating again. Here's the deal and the problem with the throttle sticking.When you wire the AP Link Lever, and the AP Set Screw Bracket, there is no give, and the AP Link Rod is moving at the same rate and same travel as the throttle drum. If your asking yourself right now, shaving the rivet, then you should definitely kick yourself in the ass. If you looked at the pics, and went from there without reading, then, shame on you.If you performed the mod, and the throttle is still sticking with it wired up, then you didnt shave enough of the AP Diaphragm Rivet off. READ THE HOW-TO.I describes in detail the problem with your throttle sticking.

#Boyesen quickshot mod#

With the AP mod done and the fuel screw on 2x 06 450's, the one with the QS required some fuel screw tuning, while the one w/o didnt, could be bike, could be coincedence. 10 is I am not mistaken, its in the instructions.Yes, fuel screw will need to be adjusted slightly. I installed a Boyesen Quick shot on my 04 450 and it seemed to idle very high, so I kept adusting the screw up and down and now I need to know how to set it back to stock.The QS issues.You need to adjust your AP Timing with that little metal guage they sent you, or, use a feller guage, and set the AP Gap to.

hope this helps.the installs really a cake walk.ĭoes anyone know the stock setting for the low fuel screw ? roll on the throttle and expect response. the bike doesnt seem faster, but much quicker.

one last thing to check is if your timing screw is in its stock position which is 0.100' i didnt touch mine bc i have never messed with it so unless you have i wouldnt worry about it.

i turned my low speed fuel screw out 1/4 to 1/2 (90 to 180 degrees) turn to enrich the fuel. Place the boyesen cover over the spring on the diaphram and secure the screws.ħ. take the d ring (little black rubber washer) from the stock cover and put in the boyesen with the flat side of the d ring facing the cover and the rounded side facing the float bowl.Ħ.

leave the spring and center pin in their stock positions.ĥ. remove the stock cover from the bowl while the carb is upside down. pump cover on the bottom of the float bowl.Ĥ. Remove the three phillips head screws from the stock acc. Remove the carb from the engine and drain all the fuel out of it.Ģ. This theory suggests that air gets trapped during normal operation. I just installed one about a week ago on my 03 450. One of the more common theories on what the Boyesen QuickShot does has to do with the two holes at the top.